Author: stevensap7

As a life-long lover of fashion, I have always had a positive connotation of anything and everything related to fashion. Countless patterns and textures fill clothing racks while glossy heels and beautifully detailed accessories are meticulously perched in displays. Who could blame me for loving something so eye-catching?  While the surface layer of the fashion industry is glitz and glam, there is a hidden darkness. It was not until I was older and learned more about the industry that I began to realize the corruption prevalent within fashion’s business practices.

Although this industry is appealing from the outside, there has been increasing concerns as the fashion industry continues to expand throughout markets worldwide while also neglecting to address the consequences of the surging industry. Some of the concerns are, but not limited to: environmental, labor, and societal concerns. My understanding of these particular issues were very minuscule and I most certainly did not know the extent of the fashion industry’s influence within these dark realities. This all changed when my Survey of the Fashion Industry class began discussing the cause and effects of fashion, more specifically fast fashion. In compliance to this topic, we watched two documentaries, The True Cost and Clothes To Die For. These both helped me further understand the negative effects of this industry and I thought I would share my insights…

So what is fast fashion? Well, fast fashion is inexpensive clothing and accessories produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends. Popular fashion retailers that have leading roles within fast fashion is H&M, Forever 21, Zara, and countless more. As indicated previously, fast fashion has many harmful consequences that I will discuss in depth, but first, I wanted to discuss some of the up-sides to the fast fashion industry. Positives include the ability for anyone to access the latest trends, there are endless options because styles and trends are constantly evolving, and their lower prices makes items more affordable thus generating increased demands. But as I am about to discuss, this is, indeed, too good to be true.

To start off, a prevalent downside to the fashion industry are the environmental effects. The mass production of textiles results in a lot of wasted materials, as well as, chemical runoff from those materials. This chemical is used within fabrics and as a result of this, there is an increasing concern for the presence of Chromium 6 within drinking water. This is an extremely toxic form of chromium, and is known to cause cancer, even at very low concentrations.The extent at which Chromium 6 is being used within clothing production is overwhelming water supplies due to the fact that so much water is needed for the production of each garment. Furthermore, the wasted fabrics and materials are all dumped into landfills which not only suffocates the Earth but decreases air quality. Similar to the side effects of chromium 6, specially-developed chemicals are used within growing agriculture, such as cotton production. These chemicals help kill off pests and bugs to ensure crops grow which is to accommodate the increasing demand for fabric/materials. The health of ourselves and the planet are at steak as toxins continue to infiltrate our air, water, and land. 

An additional concern of the fast fashion industry are its labor regulations, or lack thereof. Mass fashion retailers must be able to sell their clothes for cheap because of the highly competitive, capitalistic market of current day society. This means that mass retailers must be able to make the clothes for even more cheap and pay the people doing the work even cheaper!   Most fast fashion production takes place in under-developed countries such as India and Bangladesh because retailers are able to save a lot of money by shipping their production to a country that will do it for cheap. These clothing factories are often referred to as sweatshops because of the cramped, stuffy conditions of the poorly constructed buildings. With little to no government regulations, living wages or set hours for working do not exist. Not only is the livelihood of the workers impeded upon by such conditions but their lives are physically threatened for that there is a lack of safety regulations when it comes to buildings, machinery, and chemicals. A day that will live in infamy is the collapse of the Bangladesh clothing factory, Rhana Plaza, in April of 2013. As a result of greed and negligence by the factory owner, thousands of workers were killed under fallen materials such as cement walls and steel rods.This event, although horrendous, increased amount of media attention to the corruption of outsourced clothing factories.

Dhaka, Bangladesh – March 2010. Garment factory in Dhaka Bangladesh in the Mohakhali area. Dhaka counts more than 4000 factories producing for export only. This factory produced garments for the dutch company Hans Textiel.

Another issue that arises as a component within the fashion industry is fair trade. This exploitation of impoverished citizens to make clothes for a few dollars a day is an unfair trading practice. The mass retailers that commission orders to sweatshops are contributing to the inhumane treatments of workers. Furthermore, the mass outsourcing prevalent within fast fashion is taking away from the demand of other markets; the domestic markets of the U.S. lose a customer base as well as the markets in 3rd world countries. This can only be helped throughout the implementation of fair trade practices were foreign people are paid properly and foreign businesses are regulated to avoid monopolization.

A final element of the fast fashion industry is its toll on societies mental health. We have capitalism to thank for the spending habits of developed nation. While capitalism can be good for the economy, it is not good for one’s well-being because it promotes the idea that happiness comes from attainment of items. This has become a disease within the industry where having and spending money is applauded rather than sustainability. If society wants to see improvements within the fashion industry, we must start to shift our mindset to a way thinking that does not involve need for every and all fashions. A movement that has helped bring awareness to this issue is The Green Carpet Challenge which has acted as a catalyst to sustainable fashion practices. Rather than going out and buying another outfit, get creative and make something unique. Not only will you have a one-of-a-kind garment but you will also be taking a step away from fast fashion. So take a step back from fast fashion with me and do The Green Carpet Challenge!

Something that I have always enjoyed doing was putting my own creative twist on simple pieces of clothing. My favorite place to find articles of clothing for repurposing is any thrift shop; not only does it save money but also results in a one of a kind piece. Within my fashion merchandising class, we have been discussing the negative consequences of the fast fashion industry (In-depth blog post about this coming soon!) on retailers and people all over the world. In correlation to this reality, we were given the challenge to defy the trend of fast fashion by re-purposing/re-inventing an article of clothing within our wardrobes. I decided to take an old pair of black mom jeans and turn them into a trendy statement piece. Not only did I have fun doing this but I couldn’t be happier with the results! If you’re curious as to how I did it and what the final product looks like then keep scrolling! 🙂

Starting from the beginning, I chose these pants because I wanted to use simple black jeans so there would be a lot of options for what I could do to them! After lots of brain storming and Pinterest scrolling, I decided that I wanted to create a chain-effect going down the sides of each pant leg by using eyelet grommets and circular jewelry links.

The first step within this process was to take an Exacto knife and cut open the outside seam of each pant leg.

The next step was to evenly space the groomets on my pants and then using a white fabric marker, I traced the inner circle so I would know where the grommets needed to be inserted. Once I had the white circles marked on the front and back of the outside pants seems, I then took and Exacto knife and created perferations for the grommets to go into.

Once the holes were made, it was time to insert the grommets! Initially, this procedure seemed tedious but after figuring out how to insert them it was smooth sailing! The insertion of groomets requires 5 items: the grommet head and bottom(mandrel/anvil pair), a mallet/hammer, and then two specialty pieces that are included with grommet kits: knurled body and setting tool.

The first step for inserting grommets is to put the head/mandrel through the whole with the large part on the exterior and the protruding part through the hole. Next, I took the bottom/anvil and place on the protruding side of the head; this is what will make the finished grommet but we must use the other devices mentioned to bind it to the jeans. The knurled body is the thick, cylinder metal block that goes on the ground (hard/flat surface) with the head/mandrel facing down onto it. The top of grommet  was placed face down onto the knurled body and the next step was to place the setting tool on top of the bottom/anvil. Now that there was a sandwich of metals in between the jeans, it was time to take the mallet and mash it all together! With evenly distributed force, I hammered the top of the setting tool which forced the top and bottom of the grommet together with the jeans. The results looked like this:

I repeated this process for each perforation I made ( 24 on each side, total of 48 holes) and then once they were all installed it was time to add the chain links. A struggle I experienced with this was finding jewelry jump rings large and sturdy enough for this project. With little luck on finding this specific type of jump ring, I decided that key chain rings would be the most efficient and durable material for this. With 24 rings, I inserted them into the grommets of each side which created the chain effect:

After completing that step, I was finished! I’m in love with the final product and will definitely get a lot of use from these pants!

This past week, in my fashion survey class, we have been discussing the relationship between the United States and other countries when it comes to sourcing and merchandising fashion products. Exporting and importing goods is not just the main component of a successful business but it also helps national economies grow and expand. A naturally occurring dilemma is that some countries might be plentiful in one resource but not another; this is where trading comes into play. Economies are able to develop once countries start exporting whatever they are rich in, as well as importing goods they lack. This is not only important for businesses but it is also important for consumers because they can benefit from certain products or components that are not produced locally, but are available to purchase online from a business abroad. Products are able to be sold for cheaper which satisfies the consumer while also promoting the purchasing of products which satisfies the market.

All while the fashion industry is based on clothing, shoes, and accessories, the industry itself is ran as a business like any other industry. We all know from business and economics class, that country relations are directly related to the commerce between the two. In recent events, conflict between China and the US has increased resulting in a  trade war. Results of this conflict between China and the US are arguably to blame on the Trump administration for that it imposed $250 billion worth of tariffs on products being imported from China.

The Chinese imports are widely recognized as being crucial for US businesses and consumers. As I looked deeper into this issue I found that US accounts for 17% of China’s textile and apparel exports, while China accounts for nearly 50% of the US. Additionally, 41% of US’s apparel consumption and 72% of America’s footwear consumption are products imported from China. This shows that the US has a much higher dependency on China for imports than they do for the US.

Foreseeable consequences of Trumps’s tariffs include increased prices of products which also means a decrease in the consumption of those products for that they are now more expensive. This decrease in demand will result in businesses having to compensate for the profit loss by offering lower prices, limiting the selection/variety of products, or buying from a vendor that is not based in China which inversely harms China’s economy. This tedious balance of trading between countries directly effects the fashion industry for that the products received are dependent upon the businesses trading in and out of the two countries.

Although I am guilty of owning a hand full of leather products, the thought of innocent creatures being slaughtered for their fur brings me great discomfort. In my fashion class, our class textbook says that the leather and fur industries are a by-product of the meat packing industry. Yes, this is true but with further analysis, we know that most animals that belong to the meat packing industry mostly include chickens, cows, and pigs. While a percentage of leathers and furs come from livestock that will be used to provide food as well, the dark reality is that majority of animals that are used for leathers and furs are raised for that sole purpose. Some arguments that can be made for using genuine over faux is that the chemicals used for producing faux leathers and furs are more harmful to the environment than using animals. In addition, since artificially produced items tend to wear and tear more easily this increases the rate at which these products end up in the landfills. With this being said, I still do my best to avoid buying genuine fur or leather products for there is a broad array of vegan alternatives.

A trend that has been changing the game of fashion is the raised awareness of animal cruelty. Animal right activists have had an active role in protecting the innocent lives of animals since the beginning of the leather and fur industry itself but gained momentum in the 1970’s. The young adults of this era was a unique generation for that they did not hesitate to challenge what they believed to be wrong, i.e. animal cruelty, the war, LGBTQ rights. This attitude of anti-animal cruelty continued and in March of 1980, the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) was organized. There are still countless clothing and accessory brands that use genuine leather and fur for their products but many brands have opted to using faux materials in hopes of increasing sales and/or being kind to the fellow creatures of the earth. 

Some well-known brands that are anti-fur include Gucci, Burberry, Versace, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Giorgio Armani, and countless others. What came as a shock to me is just how young this trend is. The majority of these brands have only just declared themselves anti-fur within the past year and has even gone as far as declaring it for their future collections. A catalyst of this movement for brands that have chosen this path in the recent months began in October when Gucci announced that the Italian house was taking a stand against animal fur. The anti-fur movement has ebbed and flowed for decades though. In 1994, Calvin Klein stopped using fur and PETA released an anti-fur campaign that caught the attention of many. Supermodels including Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington, claimed they would “rather go naked than wear fur.”

In my fashion class, we have been exploring the world of fabrics and the array of ways they are used in our fashions. With this newly acquired information, I have been more skeptical about what my preferred pieces in my closet are made of. As I reflect on what I wear day-to-day, I find myself wearing a lot of athleisure clothing to make for an easy transition from class to the gym. The majority of my workout clothes are made of synthetic fibers such as polyester(Figure 2) and spandex(Figure 1); these materials have unique properties that make for sustainable and performance-friendly pieces as they help wick away moisture as I get my sweat on.

The physical properties of polyester that makes it ideal for workout clothes is the fabric’s durability and resistance to wrinkles and wear and tear. While this fabric can be known for trapping in moisture, many manufactures choose to produce their products with a polyester-cotton blend; this makes it more light-weight and breathable. Additionally, this man-made fabric is made from small spindles of plastic making easy and cheap to produce; this is good for the retailers because they can produce the product for less and either make higher profit off of each sale or encourage customers to buy more pieces as a result of lower prices. Polyester is often blended with cotton for a softer textile or with spandex to allow clothes to move as one with the body(ideal for exercise).

As the textile industry continues to expand and find new materials, techniques, and hot trends within society the more options are being released into the market. A current trend within the fashion industry touches on the prevalent issue of climate change and finding more sustainable, eco-friendly materials. One engineer who introduced a whole new realm of fabric possibilities to the world of fashion is Anke Domaske and her personal brand, QMilch. The wonderful part of her products are the fact that it is made from a plentiful source- milk(Figure 3). More specifically, the proteins within milk have an atomic structure that allows it to bond to each other creating a strong enough materials to mimic that of cotton or silk; this durable fabric performs at the same level yet comes from a mush cheaper source. This could indicate the era of unique materials being introduced to the world whilst helping the world continue to prosper for many generations (of fashions) to come!

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Moroccan textiles are characteristic for their intricate patterns, the repetitive geometric shapes, and elaborate ornamentation within fashions. Embroidery is what primarily distinguishes it’s Moroccan style and is deeply rooted in the culture’s history. The use of beading and golden threading results in a very complex design that brings a lively spirit to a garment ; this is an overall theme for Moroccan textiles. Common theme for moroccan prints are abstract and geometric patterns. These patterns are chosen for their aesthetic values of symmetry and harmony rather than direct representation of earthly objects and ideas. Still, there is a deep meaning within these patterns. Embroidered textiles are found across all aspects of Moroccan life, from walls to floors to bags to clothes. The large palette of vibrant, bold colors characteristic to the culture further enhances the energetic aesthetic of moroccan fashion. These colors and designs are translated into garments often with flowing dresses and gowns; the movement of the garments paired with the eye-catching details brings the ensemble to life. This fashion is well-appreciated for it’s colorful, lively style and influences many fashions today. The moroccan style has been interpreted by other designers through the use of bold prints mixed with contrasting prints for a eye-popping textile that can be used in all garments. As shown in the photos below, Etro and other designers used moroccan inspired textiles in skirts, dresses, belt, and kimonos to create mesmerizing ensembles.

  Some colors that will be emerging in the autumn/winter 2019 trends are vivid pinks and reds. This is influenced by the early 2000’s surge of commercial pink that brings a playful statement to any look. Additionally, bold oranges are key colors in the various patterns of the season. Often times it’s paired with other brights but almost always including a cool blue. The complimentary colors made for a well-distinguished pop against the blacks that appeared in several prints.

  Pattern trends that emerged this season was all about texture; this ranges from inflated and embossed fabrics, disrupted/ imperfect surfaces, and metallics. The understated dimensions of the inflated and embossed fabrics are reminiscent of the puffer jackets that have been on the market for a few years. This time around, the fabric is in t-shirts, pants, and more. I particularly, found the trend of of disrupted, distressed materials interesting because this brings character to a garment. The vintage aesthetic truly transforms an outfit from just garments paired together to a story of the person wearing it.

  Some new developments in textiles that will influence active wear styles are the incorporation of non-traditional sportswear materials. This allows for innovations in the sourcing and manufacturing of activewear materials for there has been increased focus on eco-conscious practices in the fashion industry. This is relevant toward the brand, Carbon 38, because the company has a socially progressive agenda of empowering those who wear the company’s clothes.

  There were several trends from this fall/winter ’19 season that stood out to me for my selected sportswear brand. One trend, I saw was the use of a simple silhouette. The lack of ruffles or flare was compensated with another emerging trend, geo-block leggings and high-sheen leggings. These pieces are good for their simple, yet eye-catching, style and versatility. Another trend, is the exo-skeleton details to garment. This instantly adds a modern, techno vibe to an ensemble and fits the contemporary style of Carbon 38. 

  A way of incorporating these style in to my sports wear line might taking a fitted pull over featuring the exo-skeletal designs while paired with metallic leggings for added effect. For another look, I might to a metallic legging in a vivid red color which would bring a 1980’s exercise glamour style to a look. An overall, theme for how I would incorporate this seasons’s trends is the combination of bold textures and colors.

I have always been fascinated with the Moroccan culture so it was an easy decision for me to choose this as my culture study. This past summer, I traveled to Spain and was able to visit the Islamic palace, Alhambra (last 2 photos captured by me). Although located in Spain, the architecture dates back to Islamic rule of this specific area resulting in an indistinguishable Islamic influence that we also see in Morocco. It was an enlightening experience being able to see the extravagant details with my own eyes. The following facts are aspects of this rich culture that I found very interesting:

-Morocco’s main religion is Sunni Islam. With in this religion, figural representation is used for depicting Allah/nature of sacred reality and is prominent within Moroccan architecture, art, and fashion.

-Moroccans enjoy a special green tea drink called atai which is a mix of green tea, mint and sugar. Brewing and serving tea is considered an art form in Morocco and holds cultural significance.

-Marrakech is one of the largest cities in Morocco and is referred to as “The Red City” due to it’s 12th century sandstone architecture. These red walls have shown their influence throughout  the country and even into other culture’s architecture.

-A special lamp used with in Ramadan rituals has become a distinctive part of the Moroccan culture. These detailed and colorful lamps are featured in markets all over the world for their aesthetic beauty.

-A takchita is a long and loose dress that Moroccan women commonly wear for celebrations and special events. They often include intricate threading, vibrant colors, and decorative beads.

Throughout the past few days of in-depth observations, I have noticed that everything has a texture or design. We often overlook the small details but once we acknowledge them, the world becomes even more beautiful. Aspects of VCU that visually stood out to me was the majority of the buildings were brick. Most of the brick architecture is located downtown in my hometown, where as here, several towering buildings are exclusively brick. I explored through a thrift store earlier today and the textures of various wall decors caught my eye with their unique design and texture. The simple, yet beautifully built, hotel next to my dorm room is very aesthetically pleasing especially when the sun starts to set and reflects off of each window. Trees line every sidewalk of the campus with each tree a unique piece of art. Overall, my observations in the city are very appealing to me and I hope to continue walking with my head up as I make my way through campus.

Carbon 38 is an athleisure brand that was established back in 2011. The CEO, Katie Johnson, is a professional dancer, workout instructor, and Harvard finance graduate. This statement alone had me sold on this brand; the modern yet timeless style of the apparel was just a bonus.

The companies mission is to empower women. I believe they are doing just that with their versatile collections that are not only meant for the gym but for day-to-day activities. While the pieces of clothing seem simple their design is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Common, essential pieces are elevated with eyelets, crochet, unique textures, and more. Any women who wears Carbon 38 will not only feel good in the gym but in all aspects of life for this was tailored to the working woman.